It is after one of those classified escapades that I decide to have a
taste of Nairobi’s public transport. This funny guy advises me to try
Githurai 45 Matatus. Little did I know he was starting me with the
hardcore stuff. He drops me off at a bus terminus called Tusker (no one I
consult around seems to know the origin of that name). The last
instructions he shouts are “watch your wallet, watch your money, watch
your everything, and have the exact fare in your hands, then he drives
off with a cunning grin on his face”
The first thing that hits my ears are the loud shrills, shouts,
chirps and all manner of noises from hordes of young men (I think I see a
lady too) screaming 45!! 50!! Githu, Roysa, fije with fists raised up
high towards the sky. There are almost a hundred busses crammed into a
tiny space and all picking clients at the same time in a very haphazard
way. The combined noise of this confusion must be 300 decibels; I wonder
how people survive this daily. My orientation decodes that 45 is the
route number, 50 is the price and the other words are stages and bus
stops along the way and repetitions of the price in sheng.
I instantly position myself along a wall, curiously scanning
everything around me, and obviously pressing my back pocket firmly away
from pickpockets as I watch other passengers were boarding. One of the
touts comes to me, briefly inquires of my destination and directs me
into the bus I had seen him hanging from in the shouting march manner. I
pause for a split second as I step into the bus to admire the body
works. This monster has been remodeled to look like a second edition
transformer. Bearing photos and names of obviously famous people and
screaming paintworks, the beast looks really awesome say for some
scratch marks on the tips.
The inside is something else, from the door the music is too loud it
stuns me for a millisecond, my heart is racing so fast by the time I get
a seat. I can feel my blood throb with every thundering beat from the
tens of speakers and woofers all over the vehicle. I taste salt in my
teeth and I think I am going to puke, I grab my seat and close my eyes
tightly until the feeling wears off. All this while, passengers are
boarding oblivious of this stranger under culture shock.
From my seat I can count at least ten television screens broadcasting
music videos, I spot a cctv camera and through a slot on the paneling
that separates the drivers cabin from the rest of us, I can see a tiny
screen constantly oscillating between music videos and a live feed of
what’s happening in the passenger area. A few passengers complain that
the bus is taking too long to fill….. {to be continued in episode two}
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